I don't lower my cars more than 1" they don't look "cool", but they handle really well. Progressive springs aren't my first choice for performance driving. If your roads are rough, consider progressive springs. The basic guidelines are to make sure your bushings and ball joints are in good shape (if they're original to the car, they're probably bad) choose suspension components that don't lower the car too much or make the car too stiff (too low and too stiff make these cars handle worse) eliminate the "factory-installed" understeer by adding a larger REAR sway bar (25mm is good for most V8s your Cobra might already have a larger rear bar) and don't run staggered wheels and tires (they ADD understeer). My focus is obviously on autocross, but I have helped people looking to make their cars more comfortable/feel better for safe street driving. I’m sure you guys have seen it all before anyways these cars over 10yrs old at this point.Īnyways I just wanted to say that my initial response to these parts is great! Installed smoothly and working as described.You can build a very capable SN95 Mustang without coil-overs. Sorry but greasy hands and cell phone don’t mix. Really happy I did this, so nice to drive my Mustang and actually enjoy it! Been a while since that has been the case. No more banging over bumps, I mean it has some NVH which I suspected since they are race car parts, but everything is nice and tight car handles like a dream now. Took it out for road test and all I can say is WOW.ĭrives better than when I drove it off the lot. Set pinion angle, and since the car didn’t come with a rear sway bar, I added one. Torquing everything was a huge PITA because car was on stands, did every one of them one click of the torque wrench at a time. Team Z UCA went in no problem, same with the LCAs. It went in real nice and seems to be a quality piece. Was able to get the old one out, and pressed in the Steeda spherical housing bushing. Removal of the stock bushing in the housing sucked as I did this on my back on jackstands. We don’t drive the car in the winter so it will be OK until spring. I did I think 10 turns on each one and then decided against it. I should have replaced the UCA bracket too, but I had just filled the gas tank and not sure how long those gas tank strap bolts are lol. Also decided to install Steeda spherical bushing at the housing. It finally let go enough so I could see the bushing broken/split and that clear/white grease coming out.Ĭar has 8.8 rearend so I ordered up the double adjustable Team Z LCAs and UCA. Installed new complete front struts and that took care of the front, no more banging over bumps, etc.īut I was getting a lot of noise from the rear, and the rear shocks helped quiet it down enough so I could find the real problem: blown out rear UCA bushing, on the chassis side, not the housing side. I was perplexed.ĭecided to just get some cheap stock stuff since I suspected the strut mounts were bad. Brought to alignment shop, they found nothing. Jacked up the car numerous times, found nothing. It rode great for a while but ended up degrading after a while until it was getting pretty bad. Also did Koni struts and shocks, replaced rear LCAs and UCA with SR non adjustable pieces. Have been chasing suspension noises for a while now.Ī few years ago I replaced the front LCAs with the FRPP GT500 LCAs, new steering rack, front swaybar endlinks, inner and outer tie rods. Daily drove it year round for almost 10yr. I have a 2006 v6 that we bought new in Oct ‘05.
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